Xochimilco’s canals are used, especially on weekends, as a party/drinking venue by entire families or groups of friends –sometimes, they even attach two trajineras together to fit well–. But, there’s so much more to them…
So, head to Embarcadero Cuemanco, our favorite pier because it’s inside the ecological reserve that preserves most of the chinampas (the famous ‘floating gardens’), hop on one of the many colorful trajineras parked by the main canal and navigate the same waterways that were once used by the Aztecs.
It’s OK to drink, especially tequila, just good luck getting off the trajinera after the tour (LOL!)
Historical Context
Whether it was built by a previous Mesoamerican culture and later perfected by the Aztecs, or an Aztec project entirely, the network of waterways and chinampas is a symbol of the extraordinary engineering that gave this empire so much power, and made Mexico so appealing to the Spanish.
Note: the commonly used term of ‘floating gardens’ is actually incorrect. The parcels of land (chinampas) are not exactly floating; they are stuffed with plants and mud all the way to the bottom of the canal, and surrounded with the strong roots of the willow trees.
From the arrival of Hernán Cortés onwards, most of the canals disappeared into neighborhoods (like Coyoacán) and highways. It’s believed that Xochimilco was spared from being paved over, because it served as the main food supply during the Spanish Conquest.
The Experience
When you get to Cuemanco, many will approach offering their services. A few years ago you would have spent some time negotiating the price; now, prices have been fixed to $350 mxn per hour (per trajinera), so it really doesn’t matter who you choose –go with your gut.
What DOES matter is the type of tour you take. If you have four hours to spare and want to really get to know the place, the ‘Ecological Tour’ is the way to go. Trust us, getting off the main canal is what makes this place a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
See for yourselves…
Useful information
- When to visit: it all depends on what you are after. Weekdays are perfect for a more relaxing/enjoy the view kind of trip, whereas weekends are more vivid with a great overview of our loud/happy culture.
- Where: Embarcadero Cuemanco.
- How to get there: the easiest way is to take an Uber or taxi.
- Tours: there are 4 types. Prices have been fixed to $350 mxn per hour, per trajinera.
Basic– 1hr (if you walk by the shore, you’ll see the same things)
Touristic– 2hrs (you get to see more of the main canal and some of the adjacent ones)
Ecological– 4hrs (the one we recommend and wrote about)
Collective– 1-2hrs (hop on a trajinera with 15 more for $20mxn. The catch is you have to wait till the boat is full –no problem on weekends)
- Tourist trap: don’t buy a tour at your agency or hotel. They will most likely charge you more and hop you on a 1h collective tour.
- Restroom: there are many public restrooms available, just ask the captain. They usually charge $5-10 mxn.
