When we hear ‘cave paintings’, most of us automatically think of Altamira and Lascaux, but we may want to add Baja California into the equation. After all, it has the oldest paintings in Latin America, dating back to 11,500 b.C.
Mulegé, or Heróica Mulegé (official name given after defeating the American army during the Mexican-American War), is situated in the shores of the Sea of Cortés, but the real beauty of the town hides between the mountains of Sierra Guadalupe, where authorities have registered up to 750 cave paintings.
Before you go
- Book your hotel in advance, because there are few options and rooms. Remember it’s a small town. So, don’t expect much luxury.
We stayed at a beautifully decorated rustic hotel called Las Casitas. Our shower needed serious cleaning, but overall the room was okay. And the stuffed potatoes they serve at their restaurant are delicious.
- Call Salvador Castro Drew (phone below) to book your tour. Ask him to meet you at your hotel to arrange the pick up. Emphasize that you want him as your guide, because he also sends his son (who acts as a driver, not a guide).
Supposedly, there are three certified guides in town: one retired, someone else, whose name remains a mystery, and Salvador. The best guide in Mulegé, according to the hotel owner.
On your way
From Loreto, it takes 1.45hrs to reach Mulegé. But, leave early, so you can make a stop at Playa El Requesón (the best spot in Bahía Concepción). Pay attention to the signs near Mulegé, so you don’t miss the exit.
Take lunch, beers, towels, and enjoy this peaceful crystal clear beach. It would be better without the RV’s blocking half the view, but what can we do…
Also, consider yourselves warned: the water is freezing cold!
When you arrive
Salvador will probably arrive at night, after he gets back from his previous tour. Don’t waste your time trying to negotiate the price… Apparently, he’s the only guide (or so we think from the registration list he fills at the INAH’s office).
You’ll have two tour options (both leave between 8.30 and 9.30):
- La Trinidad caves
It’s a 5-hour tour, with a great view of the canyon, some paintings and one big petroglyph. It involves less driving and more walking along the river.
Price: $1,500 mxn, per person +$45 mxn, per camera +$100 mxn, per person to enter the caves.
- San Borjitas caves
It’s an 8-hour tour to the oldest paintings of Latin America. It has more art than Trinidad, but it also involves several more hours of driving across a very bumpy road.
Price: $3,000 mxn per person +$45 mxn per camera
The tour
We chose La Trinidad, on Salvador’s suggestion. It’s the way to go if you are cave painting virgins like us.
He picked us up at 9.30am at our hotel. We made a quick stop to register and pay the camera fee, and began our journey through a dirt road in the middle of the desert.
On our way to the cave, we made two stops. First, to buy oranges at an orange farm. Then, to see a 500 year old cactus and have a very informative and entertaining crash course on herbalism.
After 1.30hrs, we entered the 7,000 hectares private ranch of a gynecologist in La Paz, paid our $200 mxn to the people that work there (clearly nothing ‘official’. In fact, Salvador told us he doesn’t include this payment, because they are continuously incrementing the fee), and made our way through the property.
We stopped to see a cemetery, a petroglyph of a deer, and continued walking for 30 minutes, approximately. Then, we realized why Salvador was the best option. Yes, he’s charming and knowledgeable, but also he’s the only one with a boat to cross the shallow part of the river that separates the cave from land.
Tip: bring plenty of water, a good pair of shoes and a hat. Or borrow one from Salvador, like I did.
Put attention to this part, because this is where the fun begins. When I say boat, I mean a Playskool (as in Hasbro’s toy brand) plastic vessel that carries two people –or three, with the risk of sinking–. Of course, we decided three was the way to go…
The tricky part was getting in and out, but we managed it and laughed the whole ride, while Salvador pulled the boat with a rope tied to the rocks in the cave.
Unfortunately, the cave’s roof fell with a hurricane, so only the paintings from one wall can be seen. Nevertheless, they’re beautiful and with Salvador’s explanation they come to life and recreate how these unknown settlers lived, how they hunted, what they saw and what they believed in.
We sat there for an hour, just admiring the paintings and the impressive location. Totally worth visiting.
Useful information
Contacts:
Salvador Castro Drew
[email protected]
Phone: 01 615 153 0232
Cel. 615 161 4985
Hotel Las Casitas
Calle Francisco I. Madero 50, Centro, 23900 Heroica Muleje, B.C.S.
Phone: 01 615 153 0019
Other activities:
Besides the cave paintings, Mulegé has a church that dates back to 1668 (Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé) and a very interesting tour through an ex-prison that would let inmates out during the day, for them to work and take care of their families.
